Subtle Glamour as an Affective Force in a Non-Exclusive Retail Brandscape

Lorna Stevens, Pauline Maclaran, Marleen van't Riet

Research output: Contribution to journalReview articlepeer-review

Abstract

How can a mainstream, high-street retail brand offer an aspirational and elevated shopping experience whilst still maintaining reasonable price perceptions? In this study we suggest that a subtle glamour aesthetic is an effective way to provide this experience. We draw on a qualitative, multi-method, ethnographic study of a UK lifestyle brand, The White Company, a brand that offers affordable luxury to its customers. Our study reveals the presence of a subtle glamour aesthetic within the retail brandscape, which operates as an affective force to elevate and enhance the brand. Its utilisation enables the brand to distinguish itself from competitors, whilst still offering affordability to its middle-class market. We show that glamour is used with moderation by the brand, as too much glamour would be at odds with its positioning in the marketplace and customer expectations. However, the discreet presence of subtle glamour enables the brand to elevate its products and enchant its customers. Three key branding outcomes of staging subtle glamour are identified, which we describe as: 1) staging the fascinating effect; 2) staging the promise of transformation and escape; and 3) staging the concealment of effort. We explore each of these in relation to material and discursive aspects, and importantly, how customers experience each of these staging practices. We conclude by offering suggestions for other high-street retailers on how a subtle glamour aesthetic can be used to provide customers with an enchanting and elevated shopping experience.
Original languageEnglish
JournalJournal of Retailing
Publication statusAcceptance date - 13 May 2025

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