Measurements of Wave Runup on an Atoll Island Using LiDAR

Coral atoll islands are highly susceptible to flooding and overwash due to their low-lying nature and the impacts of climate change. This study presents the first long-term, high-resolution field dataset of wave runup on a coral atoll island, collected over 6 weeks using a shore-mounted LiDAR scanner. The LiDAR data captured swash dynamics on a steep coral rubble beach fronted by a conglomerate platform. Results demonstrate the limitations of depth-based swash extraction methods, particularly for thin swash events, where depth thresholds lead to significant underprediction. Further analyses show that low-frequency oscillations (infragravity and very-low-frequency bands) and high-frequency components (transitional bores) dominate the spectra on the reef platform and are reflected in the swash signal. The displayed swash spectra highlight the critical role of low-frequency oscillations in extreme runup events, emphasizing their contribution to island flooding and overwash.