Abstract
This paper reports on a large scale field experiment designed to examine hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes in the swash zone. The data obtained during this experiment have enabled some of the first estimates to be made of net cross-shore sediment flux driven by large numbers of individual swashes derived using high-frequency measurements of morphological change. The results suggest that individual waves regularly deposit or remove hundreds of kilograms of sand per meter width of beach, however these short term morphological changes tend to balance out over longer timescales ensuring that beaches remain relatively stable. Comparison of measured sediment fluxes with those predicted by an energetics approach highlight the difficulty of modelling swash zone sediment transport.
Original language | English |
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Title of host publication | 19th Australasian Coastal and Ocean Engineering Conference 2009 and the 12th Australasian Port and Harbour Conference 2009 (COASTS AND PORTS 2009) |
Publisher | Curran Associates |
Pages | 759-767 |
Number of pages | 9 |
ISBN (Print) | 9781622764297 |
Publication status | Published - 2009 |
Event | 19th Australasian Coastal and Ocean Engineering Conference 2009 and the 12th Australasian Port and Harbour Conference 2009 (COASTS AND PORTS 2009) - Wellington, New Zealand Duration: 16 Sept 2009 → 18 Sept 2009 |
Conference
Conference | 19th Australasian Coastal and Ocean Engineering Conference 2009 and the 12th Australasian Port and Harbour Conference 2009 (COASTS AND PORTS 2009) |
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Country/Territory | New Zealand |
City | Wellington |
Period | 16/09/09 → 18/09/09 |
Keywords
- swash
- sediment transport
- morphodynamics
- beachface
- bed-levels