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Abstract
The intertidal beach profile provides coastal engineers and managers with a good indication of the current state of a sandy coastline, however regular beach profile measurements are time consuming and expensive to obtain using conventional surveying methods. The potential to reconstruct the intertidal beach profile from measurements of reflected waves is tested here using three field datasets covering a different range of hydro-morphological conditions from dissipative, to reflective. The swash is found to behave as a low-pass filter on reflected waves, with a cut-off frequency that primarily depends on the swash slope. An agreement is found between video-derived swash spectrum saturation tail and the shortest reflected waves, computed from deep water directional wave measurements. By integrating this swash slope over a tidal cycle, the shape of the intertidal beach profile can be reconstructed. Our results clearly show the potential of such method to estimate complex intertidal beach profile, such as double-slope beaches.
Original language | English |
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Pages (from-to) | 58-63 |
Number of pages | 6 |
Journal | Coastal Engineering |
Volume | 151 |
Early online date | 7 May 2019 |
DOIs | |
Publication status | Published - 1 Sept 2019 |
Funding
Mataquito exp. supported by Chilean grants Conicyt/Fondecyt/1120878 and Conicyt/Fondap/15110017 , Grand Popo exp. by French INSU/CNRS EC2CO-LEFE/IRD , UNESCO co-chair ICPMA/IRHOB , and Nha Trang exp. by Vietnamese MOST ( BKHCN/NDT-HD/2013/110 and NDT.24.FRA.16 ). We are greatly indebted to the naval services of Benin at Grand Popo for their logistic support during the field experiment and for allowing the installation of the permanent video system on the semaphore. E.B.' work was supported through CNES ' post-doctoral fellowship program (CNES - Centre National d'Etudes Spatiales). P.A.C. was also supported by Chilean grants Conicyt/PIA/FB0821 and Conicyt/Fondecyt/1170415 . C.B. was funded by the Engineering and Physical Sciences Research Council project "WAves in Shallow water" (WASH) ( EP/N019237/1 ). This research has received support from French grants through ANR (COASTVAR : ANR-14-ASTR-0019 ).
Keywords
- Beach slope
- Cut-off frequency
- Nearshore
- Reflection
- Runup
- Wave spectrum
ASJC Scopus subject areas
- Environmental Engineering
- Ocean Engineering
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Dive into the research topics of 'Intertidal beach profile estimation from reflected wave measurements'. Together they form a unique fingerprint.Projects
- 1 Finished
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Waves in Shallow Water
Blenkinsopp, C. (PI)
Engineering and Physical Sciences Research Council
15/02/16 → 8/10/17
Project: Research council
Profiles
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Chris Blenkinsopp
- Department of Architecture & Civil Engineering - Senior Lecturer
- Water Innovation and Research Centre (WIRC)
- Centre for Climate Adaptation & Environment Research (CAER)
- Institute of Sustainability and Climate Change
Person: Research & Teaching, Core staff, Affiliate staff