Abstract
The intertidal beach profile provides coastal engineers and managers with a good indication of the current state of a sandy coastline, however regular beach profile measurements are time consuming and expensive to obtain using conventional surveying methods. The potential to reconstruct the intertidal beach profile from measurements of reflected waves is tested here using three field datasets covering a different range of hydro-morphological conditions from dissipative, to reflective. The swash is found to behave as a low-pass filter on reflected waves, with a cut-off frequency that primarily depends on the swash slope. An agreement is found between video-derived swash spectrum saturation tail and the shortest reflected waves, computed from deep water directional wave measurements. By integrating this swash slope over a tidal cycle, the shape of the intertidal beach profile can be reconstructed. Our results clearly show the potential of such method to estimate complex intertidal beach profile, such as double-slope beaches.
| Original language | English |
|---|---|
| Pages (from-to) | 58-63 |
| Number of pages | 6 |
| Journal | Coastal Engineering |
| Volume | 151 |
| Early online date | 7 May 2019 |
| DOIs | |
| Publication status | Published - 1 Sep 2019 |
Keywords
- Beach slope
- Cut-off frequency
- Nearshore
- Reflection
- Runup
- Wave spectrum
ASJC Scopus subject areas
- Environmental Engineering
- Ocean Engineering
Cite this
Intertidal beach profile estimation from reflected wave measurements. / Almar, Rafael; Blenkinsopp, Chris; Almeida, Luis Pedro; Bergsma, Erwin W.J.; Catalan, Patricio A.; Cienfuegos, Rodrigo; Viet, Nguyen Trung.
In: Coastal Engineering, Vol. 151, 01.09.2019, p. 58-63.Research output: Contribution to journal › Article
}
TY - JOUR
T1 - Intertidal beach profile estimation from reflected wave measurements
AU - Almar, Rafael
AU - Blenkinsopp, Chris
AU - Almeida, Luis Pedro
AU - Bergsma, Erwin W.J.
AU - Catalan, Patricio A.
AU - Cienfuegos, Rodrigo
AU - Viet, Nguyen Trung
PY - 2019/9/1
Y1 - 2019/9/1
N2 - The intertidal beach profile provides coastal engineers and managers with a good indication of the current state of a sandy coastline, however regular beach profile measurements are time consuming and expensive to obtain using conventional surveying methods. The potential to reconstruct the intertidal beach profile from measurements of reflected waves is tested here using three field datasets covering a different range of hydro-morphological conditions from dissipative, to reflective. The swash is found to behave as a low-pass filter on reflected waves, with a cut-off frequency that primarily depends on the swash slope. An agreement is found between video-derived swash spectrum saturation tail and the shortest reflected waves, computed from deep water directional wave measurements. By integrating this swash slope over a tidal cycle, the shape of the intertidal beach profile can be reconstructed. Our results clearly show the potential of such method to estimate complex intertidal beach profile, such as double-slope beaches.
AB - The intertidal beach profile provides coastal engineers and managers with a good indication of the current state of a sandy coastline, however regular beach profile measurements are time consuming and expensive to obtain using conventional surveying methods. The potential to reconstruct the intertidal beach profile from measurements of reflected waves is tested here using three field datasets covering a different range of hydro-morphological conditions from dissipative, to reflective. The swash is found to behave as a low-pass filter on reflected waves, with a cut-off frequency that primarily depends on the swash slope. An agreement is found between video-derived swash spectrum saturation tail and the shortest reflected waves, computed from deep water directional wave measurements. By integrating this swash slope over a tidal cycle, the shape of the intertidal beach profile can be reconstructed. Our results clearly show the potential of such method to estimate complex intertidal beach profile, such as double-slope beaches.
KW - Beach slope
KW - Cut-off frequency
KW - Nearshore
KW - Reflection
KW - Runup
KW - Wave spectrum
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=85066152363&partnerID=8YFLogxK
U2 - 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2019.05.001
DO - 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2019.05.001
M3 - Article
AN - SCOPUS:85066152363
VL - 151
SP - 58
EP - 63
JO - Coastal Engineering
JF - Coastal Engineering
SN - 0378-3839
ER -