Abstract
The main objective of this paper is to systematically study the influence of offshore fringing reef topography on the infragravity-period harbor oscillations under the condition of wave breaking occurring over the reef. The infragravity (IG) period oscillations inside an elongated harbor excited by bichromatic wave groups are simulated using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq model. Based on a wave analysis technique, influences of plane reef-face slope, reef-face profile shape and reef ridge on the maximum IG period component amplitude, the bound and the free IG waves and their relative components inside the harbor are comprehensively investigated. Results show that under the condition of wave breaking occurring over the reef, all the four above-mentioned variables increase gradually with the reef-face slope, and tend to increase first, then decrease, and then increase again with the mean water depth over the reef face. For the reef-face profile shapes with relatively large mean water depth (equal to or larger than 3.0 m), the existence of the reef ridge always significantly enhances the bound IG waves inside the harbor, while its influences on the maximum IG period component amplitude and the free IG waves both depend on the incident primary wave amplitudes.
| Original language | English |
|---|---|
| Pages (from-to) | 286-298 |
| Number of pages | 13 |
| Journal | Ocean Engineering |
| Volume | 158 |
| DOIs | |
| Publication status | Published - 15 Jun 2018 |
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Keywords
- Bound infragravity waves
- Free infragravity waves
- Fringing-reef topography
- Fully nonlinear Boussinesq models
- Harbor oscillations
- Wave breaking
ASJC Scopus subject areas
- Environmental Engineering
- Ocean Engineering
Cite this
Influence of offshore fringing reefs on infragravity period oscillations within a harbor. / Gao, Junliang; Zhou, Xiaojun; Zang, Jun; Chen, Qiang; Zhou, Li.
In: Ocean Engineering, Vol. 158, 15.06.2018, p. 286-298.Research output: Contribution to journal › Article
}
TY - JOUR
T1 - Influence of offshore fringing reefs on infragravity period oscillations within a harbor
AU - Gao, Junliang
AU - Zhou, Xiaojun
AU - Zang, Jun
AU - Chen, Qiang
AU - Zhou, Li
PY - 2018/6/15
Y1 - 2018/6/15
N2 - The main objective of this paper is to systematically study the influence of offshore fringing reef topography on the infragravity-period harbor oscillations under the condition of wave breaking occurring over the reef. The infragravity (IG) period oscillations inside an elongated harbor excited by bichromatic wave groups are simulated using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq model. Based on a wave analysis technique, influences of plane reef-face slope, reef-face profile shape and reef ridge on the maximum IG period component amplitude, the bound and the free IG waves and their relative components inside the harbor are comprehensively investigated. Results show that under the condition of wave breaking occurring over the reef, all the four above-mentioned variables increase gradually with the reef-face slope, and tend to increase first, then decrease, and then increase again with the mean water depth over the reef face. For the reef-face profile shapes with relatively large mean water depth (equal to or larger than 3.0 m), the existence of the reef ridge always significantly enhances the bound IG waves inside the harbor, while its influences on the maximum IG period component amplitude and the free IG waves both depend on the incident primary wave amplitudes.
AB - The main objective of this paper is to systematically study the influence of offshore fringing reef topography on the infragravity-period harbor oscillations under the condition of wave breaking occurring over the reef. The infragravity (IG) period oscillations inside an elongated harbor excited by bichromatic wave groups are simulated using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq model. Based on a wave analysis technique, influences of plane reef-face slope, reef-face profile shape and reef ridge on the maximum IG period component amplitude, the bound and the free IG waves and their relative components inside the harbor are comprehensively investigated. Results show that under the condition of wave breaking occurring over the reef, all the four above-mentioned variables increase gradually with the reef-face slope, and tend to increase first, then decrease, and then increase again with the mean water depth over the reef face. For the reef-face profile shapes with relatively large mean water depth (equal to or larger than 3.0 m), the existence of the reef ridge always significantly enhances the bound IG waves inside the harbor, while its influences on the maximum IG period component amplitude and the free IG waves both depend on the incident primary wave amplitudes.
KW - Bound infragravity waves
KW - Free infragravity waves
KW - Fringing-reef topography
KW - Fully nonlinear Boussinesq models
KW - Harbor oscillations
KW - Wave breaking
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=85045393726&partnerID=8YFLogxK
U2 - 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2018.04.006
DO - 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2018.04.006
M3 - Article
AN - SCOPUS:85045393726
VL - 158
SP - 286
EP - 298
JO - Ocean Engineering
JF - Ocean Engineering
SN - 0029-8018
ER -