Abstract
The shoreline along sandy beaches is located at a unique position on the earth’s surface where marine and terrestrial
processes converge. The swash zone distinguishes the landward-most reach of wave action. Field observations from
this shallow and highly energetic region reveal that individual waves regularly deposit or remove hundreds of
kilograms of sand per meter width of beach. Such high rates of sand movement represent several centimeters of bedlevel change and far exceed the underlying pace of beach evolution. Relatively large morphological changes caused by
single swashes might suggest that very rapid beach erosion or accretion is a common occurrence. The contrasting
reality shown by these new observationsis that beaches generally exhibit a state of dynamic equilibrium.
processes converge. The swash zone distinguishes the landward-most reach of wave action. Field observations from
this shallow and highly energetic region reveal that individual waves regularly deposit or remove hundreds of
kilograms of sand per meter width of beach. Such high rates of sand movement represent several centimeters of bedlevel change and far exceed the underlying pace of beach evolution. Relatively large morphological changes caused by
single swashes might suggest that very rapid beach erosion or accretion is a common occurrence. The contrasting
reality shown by these new observationsis that beaches generally exhibit a state of dynamic equilibrium.
Original language | English |
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Title of host publication | Proceedings of Coastal Dynamics 2009: Impacts of Human Activities on Dynamic Coastal Processes |
Editors | M Mizuguchi, S Sato |
Publisher | World Scientific |
Number of pages | 10 |
ISBN (Electronic) | 9789814466950 |
ISBN (Print) | 9789814282468 |
DOIs | |
Publication status | Published - 30 Sept 2009 |
Event | Coastal Dynamics 2009 - Impacts of Human Activities on Dynamic Coastal Processes - Tokyo, Japan Duration: 7 Sept 2011 → 11 Sept 2011 |
Conference
Conference | Coastal Dynamics 2009 - Impacts of Human Activities on Dynamic Coastal Processes |
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Country/Territory | Japan |
City | Tokyo |
Period | 7/09/11 → 11/09/11 |
Keywords
- swash
- sediment transport
- morphodynamics
- beachface
- bed-levels