Abstract

Reflected waves account for a significant part of the nearshore energy budget and influence incoming waves, nearshore circulation and sediment transport. The use of swash parameters to estimate wave reflection is investigated at three different beaches ranging from highly reflective to dissipative. It is observed that it is essential to account for swash processes when estimating reflection, in particular at intermediate and reflective beaches with a steep beachface. Our results show that runup asymmetry in uprush/backwash can be used as a proxy for dissipation in the swash zone: larger asymmetry values indicating greater dissipation. In our dataset, a reflection predictor based on runup asymmetry has better skill in comparison to empirical predictors based on surf similarity, because runup is a process that integrates both surf and swash zone wave transformation. Runup asymmetry behaves as a swash similarity parameter and reflects an equilibrium between swash period, slope and dissipation.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)1-8
Number of pages8
JournalEstuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science
Volume217
Early online date27 Oct 2018
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 5 Feb 2019

Funding

Mataquito exp. supported by Chilean CONICYT grants FONDECYT/1120878 and FONDAP/15110017 , Grand Popo exp. by French INSU/CNRS EC2CO-LEFE/IRD , UNESCO co-chair ICPMA/IRHOB , and Nha Trang exp. by Vietnamese MOST ( BKHCN/NDT-HD/2013/110 ) and MOST2: NDT.24.FRA/16 . We are greatly indebted to the naval services of Benin at Grand Popo for their logistic support during the field experiment and for allowing the installation of the permanent video system on the semaphore. This research has received support from French grants through ANR ( COASTVAR: ANR-14-ASTR-0019 ). PAC also received support through CONICYT grants FONDECYT/1107415 and PIA/Basal FB0821 .

Keywords

  • nearshore
  • Reflection
  • Runup asymmetry
  • Swash dissipation
  • Video imagery

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Oceanography
  • Aquatic Science

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