A new remote predictor of wave reflection based on runup asymmetry

Rafael Almar, Chris Blenkinsopp, Luis Pedro Almeida, Patricio A. Catalán, Erwin Bergsma, Rodrigo Cienfuegos, Nguyen Trung Viet

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

2 Citations (Scopus)

Abstract

Reflected waves account for a significant part of the nearshore energy budget and influence incoming waves, nearshore circulation and sediment transport. The use of swash parameters to estimate wave reflection is investigated at three different beaches ranging from highly reflective to dissipative. It is observed that it is essential to account for swash processes when estimating reflection, in particular at intermediate and reflective beaches with a steep beachface. Our results show that runup asymmetry in uprush/backwash can be used as a proxy for dissipation in the swash zone: larger asymmetry values indicating greater dissipation. In our dataset, a reflection predictor based on runup asymmetry has better skill in comparison to empirical predictors based on surf similarity, because runup is a process that integrates both surf and swash zone wave transformation. Runup asymmetry behaves as a swash similarity parameter and reflects an equilibrium between swash period, slope and dissipation.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)1-8
Number of pages8
JournalEstuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science
Volume217
Early online date27 Oct 2018
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 5 Feb 2019

Keywords

  • nearshore
  • Reflection
  • Runup asymmetry
  • Swash dissipation
  • Video imagery

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Oceanography
  • Aquatic Science

Cite this

Almar, R., Blenkinsopp, C., Almeida, L. P., Catalán, P. A., Bergsma, E., Cienfuegos, R., & Viet, N. T. (2019). A new remote predictor of wave reflection based on runup asymmetry. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 217, 1-8. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ecss.2018.10.018

A new remote predictor of wave reflection based on runup asymmetry. / Almar, Rafael; Blenkinsopp, Chris; Almeida, Luis Pedro; Catalán, Patricio A.; Bergsma, Erwin; Cienfuegos, Rodrigo; Viet, Nguyen Trung.

In: Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, Vol. 217, 05.02.2019, p. 1-8.

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

Almar, Rafael ; Blenkinsopp, Chris ; Almeida, Luis Pedro ; Catalán, Patricio A. ; Bergsma, Erwin ; Cienfuegos, Rodrigo ; Viet, Nguyen Trung. / A new remote predictor of wave reflection based on runup asymmetry. In: Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science. 2019 ; Vol. 217. pp. 1-8.
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